
Another pre-dawn start. I reluctantly left Siem Reap to start
looping
back to Phnom Penh. I tuk-tukked out of Siem Reap, following the
Siem
Reap River south to Chong Kneas. A largely floating village just a bit
north of Cambodia's great Lake, the Tonle Sap. I boarded a boat
here
and while I waited for us to shove off I watched the kids commuting to
school in their little canoes.

We headed out, first down river and then into the Tonle Sap. We kept
the coast in sight to the north, but the expanse of the lake was
evident as all other horizons were swallo
wed by the curvature of the
earth. From here we entered into some ridiculously narrow
waterways,
twisting and turning upstream along the river's passage. This was the
dry season so the low water forced our boat to wind along tight
serpentines, occasionally running aground. The scenery was
constantly
fascinating. The river dwellers of Cambodia seem to be pretty near
amphibious. Spending much of their time in and near the water,
scrabbling about with a variety of fish capturing apparatus. All
of
the functions of daily life are carried out on boats or in the water it
seems. There are floating markets, food stalls, elementary schools. We
stopped at a village along the way and I bought a few loaves of bread
and a couple of cans of beer for $1.50. We had a bit of cloud
cover
that day, which was a great and good thing. I chose to sit up on the
roof to take pictures, and if the sun were out in full force I'm sure I
would have been well and truly barbecued over the course of the 10 hour
journey.

Evidence of the tortuous nature of dry season passage, that boat is a
hundred yards away and a good 3/4 mile behind us on the waterway.

